Відео

I've got the Oslo 500, with clear face. It's a good stove. If you burn 24/7 the ash pan is worthless, because when you empty the pan, the hot ash from above will fall into the ash pan void, and now you will have an issue getting the hot ash out of there. I leave the ash pan full, and only remove ash with a shovel into a double bottomed metal bucket. I do leave a little ash on the bottom, as you said, because that will insulate the coals burning overnight, and leave me hot coals for restarting the next morning. Once a week, I let the ashes burn way down, and remove 90% of the ash in the burn compartment, then restart a cold fire. I have found that the stove will get hotter and do so faster if there is not too much ash in the stove. If you let the ash and coals build to say 4", you are in effect reducing the size of the stove, and I've noticed by the temperature gauge I put on top that it will not get as as hot period, and takes longer. Overall I'm very happy with the stove, and I needed a rear exit stove because we only had a fireplace insert, so we mounted it on the floor in front of the opening. Since I cut my wood, I can make much of it 12"long, so that I can put it north/South, but it is not difficult putting it East/West. My cedar Is also 12" so I can easily put that N/S to rekindle in the AM and then put 16" oak E/W across. The other issue with too much ash build up is you reduce the stacking height of the wood for your overnight fires, because they hit the smoke reburning element at the top. If I did not need the rear exit, I think I would prefer a deeper and taller stove. Alot depends on what is available in your area. I wanted a pro install because I had to run the pipe up the chimney flu and didn't want to take any risk of not installing it correctly myself.

You still enjoying this stove? Any issues?

I agree on the North South loading....burns way better...

We have had this stove since 2005 so it is the first version. The door glass is a pain in the ass to clean because of the outside iron work. Now they offer a clean face unit which I would recommend. There is about 3/4 of an inch between the glass and the iron work. We have been happy with the ability to heat our 2000' home that has electric heat ( built in 1969 ) very well. We are retired now, live in SE WI so feeding it isn't an issue. We use about 6 cords of Harwood per year. WE have a single story ranch that is L shaped with a sunroom in the middle of the L where the stove is located. Today I noticed the glass ( not glass but some other material) and have needed to replace the door seal as well. The stove has been trouble free except for the fire door handle which the kit ( tells you they have had problems) fixed easily. I also should replace the fire brick in the back as 2 of them have cracked. Being located in the sunroom ( 2 walls, all glass) at the furthest from the main part of this house, it heats well. I fit was in the main part of the house, it would roast us out of the house. I see the newest version has a catalytic combustion as opposed the the secondary air version of the original.

Too bad they discontinued this stove, guess it couldn’t pass the new regs. I ended up with the F45 and really pleased with the performance.

Thank you, this is the best and most actual showing of how to change these. I've been going through multiple videos and this is the only one that shows how to go at it. Most are before and after not showing how it's done. Again, thank you

You didn't even test it!

Thanks for the review. my dad has this stove and been burning it for 10 years. This year it built up creosote on the inside especially around the doors and ash pan door. I took it apart and cleaned it and plan on replacing the upper baffle which has a few small holes in it toward the back. Have you had any issues like this?

I've got 2 7.3 Idi s , pour a bucket of diesel and put the sucker in that , fixed them both , keep scrubbing it and shaking out the buildup till no more oil comes out the tiny hole, test with breath blowing through , while sticking index finger through middle , that's on diaphram plate , if it pushes out when blowing in easy and holds pressure while you are still blowing or covering the hole, it's good to go. Diesel has lubricants in it so it's safe for diaphram

This does not work because the threads will be stripped once u remove the top injector. So it’s ineffective.

I must have wired glow plugs. Mine were 3/8”

What about cleaning the chimney; where does the soot go in this stove? Does it got to the firebox or must you disconnect the stovepipe?

Load front to back. I cut my own wood. It burns all night

where do you take your stove top reading from and can you share your readings during a burn cycle.

Always turn camera phone sideways when recording. This applies to all phone models.

I can look for the install guide. I have a V.C. stove on my raised hearth. I need the pipe to go straight back vs. up for my connection to fit. Does this stove connection work going straight back? (top flange mount or reverse) Thanks, John

Thanks.

I am able to move the diaphragm with my own breath. Just pressed my lips up to it. Mine wasnt very dirty so I didnt get much flavor unfortunately. Seems to be sealed, if you can blow air through the hole and it leaks through then you must have a tear in the diaphragm and need to replace it.

I have the same stove and have the same warped plate, was it hard to get the old one off? Did your come with the offset handle for the door? my handle is not offset and is chard.

how do you find the grate? does it do a good job of letting ash down while keeping the charcoal up?

thanks for the review!

most of the time, I can get the glass reasonably clean just by wiping with a DRY paper towel in the morning, even if its warm... as long as the wood is dry, the deposits on the glass are light and ash like, rather than sticky and dark

Thank You..Great review

Does anyone know WHY jotul warns not to open the ash door for additional draft? Voids warranty ... ya da ya da I don’t do it very often but if I need an additional draft when starting to fire it certainly helps to open the ash door. As soon as the fire is established I close it of course. I have not seen any detrimental effects so far. Anyone?

I have the same problem Someone told me to the same thing but screw the injector back in and and some locktite and pull it the next day

This was our primary heater all winter of 2018/2019. First year with it. Had no issues keeping our old drafty house warm, about 72 degrees in sub zero temps. Some nights with wind chill we were down -20f. Still kept it in the 70’s running on low. Definitely a good stove. If you want a little more control you can partially block the secondary air intake with a wad of tinfoil. It’s located at the bottom of the stove in the back. However this stove is designed to pump out the BTUs. This is why the primary air leaver lets in so much air and can never be fully closed. Burn times for us averaged about 6 1/2 hours but the stove holds a good coal bed for a long long time. About 10 - 12 hours if it’s loaded with sugar maple or oak. Stove top will still be about 250f. I just got through your review on the 50tl. These stoves should operate about the same so it may be the difference in your setups which are effecting performance.

How big is your home and what avg temp does it keep the house on a day that is 35 degrees or so? Any change in impressions now that you have owned it longer?

If i have a 3000 square house on two levels. Is it too big stove?

Thanks for the video! Dealing with one of these in my 85 6.9. Your video saved the day.

Good review, did you get the screen

I tested my CDR valve diaphragm, and its intact, and in fairly good condition. The CDR valve however is still stuck open and pours oil in the intake. Just because the diaphragm works doesn't mean the valve does, but it's a start